Enhancing Garment Performance: A Guide to Choosing the Right Interlining

When crafting clothing or accessories, the unseen layers often play the  critical role in determining how a piece feels, fits, and endures. Interlining—the layer sandwiched between the outer fabric and lining—adds structure, warmth, and stability. Yet, selecting the appropriate interlining requires careful thought about the materials involved, the garment’s intended use, and the desired drape. This guide outlines key considerations for choosing interlining, explains the differences between various types, and offers suggestions for ensuring the  possible outcome in any sewing project.

Understanding the Purpose of Interlining

Unlike interfacing, which reinforces specific details (collars, cuffs, waistbands), or lining, which conceals seams and facilitates easy dressing, interlining spans larger areas to provide bulk, insulation, and consistent support across a garment’s surface. By learning how interlining behaves with different fabrics, designers and sewists can:

• Improve Shape Retention: Adding interlining to areas like coat fronts or hat crowns helps maintain crisp lines and prevents sagging over time.

• Enhance Warmth: For cold-weather wear, interlining materials trap air and add insulating layers, ensuring garments keep their wearers comfortable.

• Create Opacity and Body: Sheer or lightweight fabrics benefit from hidden support beneath the surface, eliminating transparency and helping the garment drape as intended.

• Preserve Durability: Interlining can reduce friction between layers, protecting delicate outer fabrics from abrasion and extending a garment’s lifespan.

Key Factors in Selecting Interlining

Before choosing an interlining, consider the following factors to match the layer to your project’s needs:

1. Fabric Weight and Hand

   • Lightweight Fabrics: Fabrics such as silk, chiffon, or lightweight cotton have a delicate drape and thin weave. Interlining for these materials should be similarly lightweight—providing just enough support without changing the hand or causing stiffness.

   • Medium-Weight Fabrics: Garments made from materials like poplin or crepe can often handle a slightly more substantial interlining, which lends subtle body without adding excessive bulk.

   • Heavyweight Fabrics: For wool, denim, or canvas, choose a robust interlining that resists moisture and maintains shape. This ensures structured items like jackets or tailored trousers hold up under daily wear.

2. Garment Type and Intended Use

   • Tailored Outerwear: Coats, blazers, and jacket fronts benefit from interlinings that add firmness and reinforce lapels or collars. In structured garments, interlining that bonds securely helps garments retain their professional finish.

   • Unlined Dresses and Tops: When a garment is meant to be unlined for ventilation or ease, interlining can replace a lining altogether in critical areas—providing opacity and preventing delicate fabrics from losing shape.

   • Accessories (Hats and Shoes): In hat-making, interlining gives the brim and crown enough support to hold their shape. In footwear, it can add comfort and prevent friction between the outer fabric and inner sole.

3. Color and Sheerness
   When working with pale or sheer fabrics, pick an interlining color that closely matches the outer layer. Even a slight contrast can show through, creating unwanted shadows or altering the garment’s appearance.

4. Flexibility and Stretch
   Fabrics with natural stretch—such as knits or textiles used in activewear—require interlining that moves with the fabric. Elastic or stretch-compatible interlining ensures seams do not pucker and that the overall silhouette remains comfortable.

Comparing Fusible and Non-Fusible Options

Once you understand the basic needs of your project, the next decision is whether to use fusible (heat-activated) or non-fusible (sew-in) interlining. Each method offers distinct advantages:

• Fusible Interlining
  Fusible interlining includes a heat-sensitive adhesive layer. By applying a hot iron or heat press, the interlining bonds firmly to the reverse side of the fashion fabric. This method works well when you need a streamlined application and minimal stitching.

  • Pros:

    • Quick to apply and lays flat without additional stitching.

    • Reduces bulk in seam allowances, since there’s no need for extra layers of thread.

  • Cons:

    • Delicate fabrics may scorch or wrinkle under high heat.

    • Adhesive can bleed through if the coating is too heavy for a lightweight fabric.

• Non-Fusible Interlining
  Non-fusible interlining lacks adhesive and is attached by basting, pinning, or sewing. It offers greater control over placement and is especially useful for fabrics that cannot tolerate heat or bonded layers.

  • Pros:

    • No risk of heat damage or visible glue spots.

    • Ideal for hand-finished or intricately embroidered garments where precision is paramount.

  • Cons:

    • Requires additional time to baste or stitch in place.

    • Can add slight bulk at seam intersections if not carefully trimmed and pressed.

Exploring Material Types: Woven, Knitted, and Non-Woven

Interlining materials fall into three broad categories—woven, knitted, and non-woven—each suited to different applications:

1. Woven Interlining
   Made from tightly interlaced yarns, woven interlining offers crispness and stability. It is often chosen for tailored jackets and shirts where clear, sharp lines are essential. The structured weave provides uniform support that resists stretching out of shape.

2. Knitted Interlining
   Knitted interlining has built-in stretch, making it well-suited to garments that require flexibility—such as t-shirts, leggings, or fitted hats. Because knitted fabrics naturally recover their shape, they help maintain a smooth finish without restricting movement.

3. Non-Woven Interlining
   Non-woven interlining consists of fibers bonded together without a formal weave or knit structure. It can be lightweight or substantial, depending on fiber content and production method. Non-woven interlining is versatile and often used in ready-to-wear clothing due to its consistent hand and ease of handling. It can also serve as an eco-friendly option if manufactured from natural or recycled fibers.

Insulating Garments with Interlining

When the primary goal is warmth, interlining choices shift to emphasize thermal performance and breathability. Consider these options for insulative projects:

• Natural Fiber Battings
  Cotton, bamboo, or wool-blend battings are extraordinary choices for quilted coats and jackets. They trap air effectively, creating pockets that resist heat loss. Natural battings also tend to breathe well, helping to wick moisture away from the wearer’s body. For those who value sustainability, natural battings are biodegradable and often sourced from renewable materials.

• Flannel Interlining
  A soft cotton flannel layer adds gentle warmth without appearing bulky. It is especially comfortable when the garment lacks a full lining, since the brushed surface of flannel feels soft against the skin. Flannel works well for trousers, lightweight jackets, and dresses intended for cooler temperatures.

• Synthetic Performance Layers
  High-performance interlinings made from synthetic fibers can deliver significant insulation in a thin profile. While these materials resist moisture and maintain loft, they are usually derived from non-renewable resources. Crafters concerned with environmental impact may seek recycled or blended alternatives that approximate the performance of virgin synthetics without their ecological drawbacks.

Best Practices for Attaching and Finishing

Regardless of the type of interlining chosen, careful application is essential for achieving a professional result:

1. Test Before Attaching: Always press a small sample of fashion fabric with your chosen interlining to verify that the heat setting, adhesive strength, or stitch pattern does not harm the outer material.

2. Align Grainlines: For woven and non-woven interlinings, match the grain to the fabric’s grain to prevent unwanted distortion.

3. Use Proper Pressing Techniques: When basting or fusing, apply even pressure. For fusibles, follow the recommended pressing time, and avoid sliding the iron to prevent shifting adhesive.

4. Trim Seam Allowances: After attaching interlining, trim seam allowances to reduce bulk and ensure smooth seams.

5. Layer Strategically: In garments that combine insulation, stability, and lining—such as a winter coat—apply underlining first, then interlining, and finish with interfacing on areas requiring crisp edges. This layered approach balances warmth, structure, and flexibility.

Conclusion

Interlining is a versatile tool in the sewist’s arsenal, providing everything from subtle body and opacity to substantial warmth and shape retention. By considering fabric weight, garment type, and the benefits of fusible versus non-fusible options, you can select an interlining that enhances both the function and the aesthetic of your project. Whether you’re constructing tailored outerwear, quilted jackets, or unlined blouses, thoughtful interlining choices ensure garments look polished, feel comfortable, and stand the test of time. For a complete range of interlining materials and expert guidance, visit http://interlining-factory.com/.