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FAQ

What are the characteristics of using nonwoven fabric as a base fabric for fusible interlinings?

Nonwoven fabric, also known as non-woven material, offers many advantages when used as a base fabric for fusible interlinings:

  • Wide range of thicknesses: Specifications range from less than 20 g/m² to more than 80 g/m².

  • Fibers can be dyed beforehand, eliminating the need for pretreatment.

  • The fabric generally has no specific direction of stretch, so cutting can be done without regard to orientation, making it convenient to use.

  • Due to the random arrangement of fibers, it is suitable for bonding with various fabrics, resists wrinkling, and is particularly suitable for lightweight fabrics.

How does the bond strength vary among different fiber substrates when using polyamide (PA) hot-melt adhesives?

Generally speaking, the bond strength (also known as peel strength) follows this order: 100% cotton > nylon > wool > acrylic > polyester.

What is napping, and what are the benefits of napping woven interlinings?

Napping involves using a needle-punched napping machine to raise the fibers on the reverse side of the interlining, creating a uniform and dense layer of fiber nap.

Napping offers the following benefits:

  • Improves the fabric’s hand feel and enhances softness.

  • Prevents adhesive bleeding during pressing.

  • Improves iron glide.

  • Prevents fraying of fabric edges caused by cutting.

What are the main requirements for the base fabric of woven interlinings?

The base fabric of woven interlinings has a decisive impact on the quality of the interlining.

The main requirements for the base fabric are as follows:

The width of the base fabric should be as consistent as possible. If the width is inconsistent, the wider sections will lack powder during dot coating, while on the narrower sections, once the hot-melt adhesive powder melts onto the embossing or heating rollers, it is difficult to remove. Inconsistent width also hinders subsequent processing, leading to poor dot transfer and affecting the bonding strength between the interlining and the fabric. Additionally, it creates difficulties during garment cutting.

While maintaining a low fabric shrinkage rate, the base fabric should possess a good hand feel. High-end apparel fabrics typically have excellent elasticity and hand feel, so the interlining used with them must also have a low shrinkage rate and a good hand feel. This prevents curling or bubbling after bonding and washing, which could otherwise compromise the fabric’s inherent aesthetic appeal.

Surface defects on the base fabric must be minimized as much as possible. The presence of surface defects adversely affects the coating process; for example, creases on the base fabric can lead to uneven powder distribution, missing powder spots, and fabric crushing. Meanwhile, the presence of sizing spots or ruffles can cause holes in the base fabric, edge bulging, and edge crushing, severely affecting the quality of the interlining.

What are the applications of several commonly used hot-melt adhesive interlinings?

Polyethylene (PE) adhesive interlinings are suitable for shirts and similar garments. Among these, low-pressure high-density polyethylene (HDPE) adhesive interlinings offer good wash resistance, but require a bonding temperature of approximately 170°C. They are easy to bond.

Polyamide (PA) fusible interlining offers a certain degree of resistance to dry cleaning and machine washing, with excellent elasticity and drape. It is suitable for use as interlining in various outerwear, such as suits. Some high-melting-point PA fusible interlinings can withstand dry cleaning and machine washing even at 60°C.

Polyester (PES) fusible interlining has a high melting point, good wash resistance, a pleasant hand feel, and strong bonding strength. It is particularly suitable for pure polyester or polyester-cotton blended fabrics. It is generally used for shirt collars.

Ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer (EVA) fusible interlining has a low melting point and is not wash-resistant; it is suitable for use as fur lining.

Saponified ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer (EVAL) fusible interlining has a moderate melting point and offers some wash resistance; it is suitable for silk, lightweight synthetic fiber garments, and linings for shoes and hats.

What are the requirements for hot-melt adhesives used in garment interlinings?

Hot-melt adhesives used in garment interlinings must meet the following criteria:

  • Good bonding performance, meaning a high peel strength can be achieved with a small amount of adhesive.

  • A low melting temperature (90–140°C) to allow for coating or fusing at lower temperatures without affecting the fabric’s hand feel or damaging the fibers.

  • Good melt flow for easy coating and fusing, without adhesive bleeding.

  • Good washability, withstanding multiple wet washes and dry cleaning (perchloroethylene).

  • Good thermal stability and resistance to aging; soft hand feel; harmless to humans; odorless.

  • Suitable powder properties, reasonable price, and ease of use.

What is hot melt adhesive?

Hot melt adhesive, commonly referred to as hot melt, is a type of solid adhesive based on thermoplastic polymers. When heated, it melts into a viscous adhesive fluid that penetrates fabrics or other materials; upon cooling, it solidifies and bonds them together.

What are the categories of fusible interlinings based on their base fabric?

Woven fusible interlinings

  • 100% cotton fabrics

  • Blended fabrics

Knitted fusible interlinings  

  • Warp-knitted fabrics

  • Weft-knitted fabrics

Nonwoven fusible interlinings (commonly known as nonwoven fusible interlinings)

  • Dip-coated nonwoven fusible interlinings

  • Hot-rolled nonwoven fusible interlinings

  • Nonwoven interlinings with woven chains

What are the essential properties of a fusible interlining?

After bonding the fabric and interlining, the assembly should possess a certain degree of peel strength and generally withstand machine washing (40°C) or dry cleaning. Shirt interlinings can withstand washing at 95°C.

The shrinkage rate and thermal shrinkage rate of the interlining should be similar to those of the fabric.

After bonding, the fabric should be supple yet firm, combining elasticity with a certain degree of stiffness, offering a full-bodied feel and good drape.

It should have good breathability.

The bonding temperature range of the interlining should be compatible with the fabric’s properties and should not damage the fabric during bonding.

What are the main characteristics of fusible interlining? (What are the benefits of using fusible interlining?)

It bonds directly to the fabric, giving garments a structured, crisp, and attractive appearance.

It simplifies garment manufacturing processes and is suitable for mechanized production.

It has minimal shrinkage and excellent wash resistance, maintaining its shape even after repeated washing.

It comes in a wide variety of types and has broad applications, including as interlining for clothing, shoe and hat linings, and decorative linings; thicknesses can be freely combined.

What is fusible interfacing?

Hot-melt adhesive interlining, commonly referred to as interlining (also known as hot-melt lining), is a reusable lining fabric produced by uniformly applying hot-melt adhesive in specific patterns (such as dots, grids, or random patterns) onto a base fabric. Under certain conditions, it can be firmly bonded to the outer fabric through heat and pressure, thereby helping garments maintain their shape and structure. Common base fabrics include woven fabrics, knitted fabrics (warp-knitted fabrics, warp-knitted fabrics with weft), and nonwoven fabrics (produced by bonding or hot-rolling methods). Hot-melt adhesives include polyethylene, polyamide copolymers, polyester copolymers, and ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymers.

What are the different categories of interlinings based on their performance characteristics?

Non-adhesive (adhesive-free) interlinings.

Process-bonded (also known as temporary-bonded) interlinings.

Fully adhesive (permanently bonded) interlinings.